Page 42 - 《社会》2025年第4期

愈现代，愈“自然”：中国人食物生产中的情感结构

道教化和医学化的建构和加持，以对“土”的理解为典型，具有中国文明的独特
性。现代性远离了自然，凸显了食物风险和人的流动性，激活了此情感结构，引
导中国人身处工业文明却试图觅食于农业社会。“愈现代，愈‘自然’”，此之谓
也。 对生产和消费行为背后的情感结构的具体形态的探究，是探索人的生命意
义的情感支撑的一次尝试，以追问将社会学作为“生命的学问”的可能性。
关键词：农产品地理标志 三门青蟹 情感结构 自然情结 生命的学问

The More Modern，The More“Natural”：The Emotional Structure
of Chinese Food Production—A Case Study of the Growth
History of“Sanmen Mud Crab”
HUI Yichen LI Cuan XIAO Ying
Abstract：In an era of increasingly industrialized and scientific food production，the
emotional appeal of Chinese consumers’ pursuit of unprocessed and“back鄄to鄄
basics” food is particularly noteworthy. This paper examines the development history
of Sanmen mud crab （scylla serrata），designated as a national geographical
indication （GI） as well as an agricultural GI brand，through three distinct phases.
First，in its pre鄄industrial production period，the“natural” endowment attributed to
local crabs by Sanmen people laid an unspoken foundational consensus for its
subsequent industrialization. Second，the making of“Sanmen mud crab” brand both
inherits and reconstructs the “natural” quality from its pre鄄industrial phase.
However，as its brand value and market share grew，tensions emerged between local
and out鄄of鄄town crabs，between formula and natural feeding，and the pursuit of size
versus freshness/sweetness，putting its “natural” endowment at risk. In the third
phase，returning university graduates moved beyond the dualistic imagination of
science and nature，employing scientific methods to rebuild aquaculture environments
and practices，thereby，to a certain extent，managed to overcome the “natural
endowment” crisis.
The growth history of the Sanmen mud crab reveals that the Chinese
fascination with natural food is rooted in a profound emotional structure connecting
to “nature”. This emotional structure，cultivated by a long agricultural civilization，is
universal to humanity，yet it is further developed and reinforced by Daoist
philosophy，and Daoist and Chinese traditional medicinal practices，as exemplified
by the Chineses understanding of “soil”（土），which is unique to Chinese civilisation.
Modernity，by distancing itself from nature and highlighting food risks and human
mobility，has activated this emotional structure，leading Chinese people，even amidst
industrial civilization，to seek sustenance from the agricultural past. This phenomenon

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